It wouldn’t have anything to do with the brand’s essence being
applied to a giant plastic lighter, would it?
How is price determined? Is it by quality? Maybe a little –
but when it comes to apparel, there’s something far more important. Perception.
Brands are afforded the ability to charge a premium when we
say they can.
Not literally, (as clothiers
hoping to position themselves as high-end don’t typically enter the market with
heavy discounts, waiting on demand to pick up and only then instituted price
hikes), but once the perception of value is secured and prestige pricing applied,
most brands work tirelessly to maintain their elite status.
They file lawsuits
against competitors – legit and
fraudulent alike – that dare to manufacture product closely resembling
their aura.
They execute projects
in brand extension – embracing methods that reinforce their perception of
quality, all the while increasing their reach down market.
Consider:
Vera Wang – High-end
designer of women’s wear and famous for couture bridal gowns, Wang now markets “Simply Vera” at mid-market Kohl’s
Department Stores. The diffusion line, although priced premium by Kohl’s
standards, applies Wang’s signature style to apparel, bedding, and bath lines attainable
by fashion-conscious middle-Americans.
Ralph Lauren –
From the ultra-exclusivity of his “Purple
Label,” to the more standard and iconic “Polo”
brand, down to the entry-level, value-conscious “CHAPS” – Ralph Lauren understands the importance of marketing
product downstream while maintaining legitimacy and premium pricing at the top.
So, what did Ed Hardy do wrong?
If ultra-couture brands like Jimmy Choo and Versace can
craft lines for H&M and Ralph Lauren beach towels can show up at TJ Maxx, why is Ed Hardy losing mojo
with its brand extension projects?
No sub-brand strategy
– Ed Hardy, is Ed Hardy, is Ed Hardy.
There was no attempt to devise different naming conventions to other product
categories that borrow Ed Hardy’s signature style. Something as minor as “The
Bic Everlast Lighter, now stylized by Ed Hardy” would have gone a long
way.
Premium / sub-premium disconnect – An Ed Hardy Zippo would have been better. From couture loungewear to an instrument
with open flame – that’s a giant leap. It would felt more natural at least maintained
a notion of luxury if Ed Hardy would have partnered with a premier player
within the lighter category.
But, maybe they’ve already made their peace?
Perhaps founder Christian Audigier wasn’t looking to win an
endurance competition with Ed Hardy? He also launched Von Dutch – remember that blip on the radar?
Maybe his thing is speed – short, fast runs where popularity
of edgier, more niche styles rise quickly and fall off just as fast? I suppose
if a brand is already on its final descent, there’s no reason it shouldn’t grapple
for as many co-branding opportunities as possible.
All I know is my once favorite Ed Hardy briefs, demoted to
gym and sleep only, have reached their final post as apartment dust rag.
End of the line... |